honda valkyrie trike fourm what rear master cylinder to use

09-19-2016,07:eleven PM

I have a 1995 GL1500 Aspencade with a Motortrike trike kit. As a disabled rider I am trying to combine most (if not all) of the brakes to the hand lever. Originally the hand lever but worked the right front end disc brake. Final winter I had my mechanic route a new brake line to piece of work the 2 drum brakes on the trike. He felt the hand lever main cylinder would support either the ii front disc brakes or the ii drum brakes in the back. I didn't think I would want both fronts but in an emergency situation, so opted to accept the two rear pulsate brakes. I at present find that the stopping power of only the rear pulsate brakes is not adequate. Not even as practiced as the original right front disc, so I demand to add together at to the lowest degree one front disc brake to the equation.

I accept already tried to employ a double banjo bolt with:
ane) the new rear restriction line to work the two drum brakes along with the original line to the right front disc brake.
Result: brakes were Very soft and in a imitation emergency situation the lever went dorsum to the throttle as the front master cylinder could non push plenty fluid...
two) rebuilt the front principal cylinder
Outcome: no alter...
3) bought a new OEM brake line to work the right front end disc brake.
Outcome: no alter...

4) placed a 10 psi residual valve at the front of the metal line going to the two drum brakes.
Result: no alter...

So, right now I am back to just using the two drum brakes on the trike and down shifting a lot.

Has anyone accomplished this blazon of brake setup?
Is the Front primary cylinder from a GL1800 bigger than the GL1500?
Does Honda make a bigger front principal cylinder that will work?
I read somewhere that possibly i of the trike kit companys can diameter out the forepart master cylinder and use the piston from the Valkyrie.
What well-nigh using a slave cylinder to actuate the Rear main cylinder, since it is already setup for the 2 rear and the left front brakes?

Any assist would be nearly appreciated... Ron

09-20-2016,12:11 PM

welcome aboard I hope someone has an respond for you

09-20-2016,09:18 PM

What I did on a pal of mines, information technology installed an adjustable proportioning valve. We ran the lines from the rear to the proportioning valve, fronts to the aforementioned, and then upward to the master cylinder on the handlebars.

We had to mess with the adjustment on the proportioning valve to go along from the front bike locking up is almost all. It has worked cracking now for ii years.

Might not be street legal in your state, though. You would have to bank check first.

09-21-2016,eleven:03 PM

Promise it gets worked out. Allow us know the results. Jim

09-22-2016,09:44 AM

To stinger, what type of trike did you make that modification on? My whole issue has been the master cylinder not pushing enough fluid to piece of work at least iii brakes and I'm not sure a proportioning valve would solve that. Information technology may exist worth a shot though!! Thanks for the suggestion...

09-22-2016,12:42 PM

Quote Originally Posted past shootdaroc View Post

To stinger, what blazon of trike did you lot brand that modification on? My whole upshot has been the chief cylinder not pushing enough fluid to work at least iii brakes and I'm non sure a proportioning valve would solve that. It may be worth a shot though!! Cheers for the suggestion...

Information technology is on a Harley trike. We had to buy a larger bore master cylinder to solve that issue. Seems like nosotros got a seven/viii" diameter master cylinder. I'grand pretty sure we purchased it from J & P cycles.

They had the masters for 7/viii" and 1" handlebars.

08-04-2020,08:38 PM

I decided to update this post (again) with what I have "learned" through this entire process over the past 4 years in instance it helps another disabled rider as I at present take Very Skillful brakes! 2 years agone I replaced the rubber line going to the dorsum brakes with a steel braided line and connected that to the ten psi residue valve and could at present lock the rear brakes up at volition and no longer pull the brake lever to the throttle!! Yes... At present, just because I can lock upwards the rear brakes doesn't mean it stops real quickly as you really need the front stopping power too, every bit the trike weighs almost 1200 pounds without rider(s).

Soooo...

1) This past winter I had a steel braided brake line made for the correct front restriction caliper. 2) Hooked upwards front steel braided restriction line and the rear steel braided restriction line with double banjo bolt - Yet not enough pressure! Could pull lever to throttle and brakes would not lock up. 3) Finally past researching what size piston is in the GL1800 chief cylinder on eBay I accidentally constitute an verbal Goldwing replica master cylinder with five/8� (fifteen.8 mm) piston for $28!! Plant the same primary cylinder on Amazon and then I bought information technology from at that place in instance it needed to go dorsum. 4) Hooked up the v/viii� principal cylinder with the forepart and rear steel braided brake lines with a double banjo commodities and finally I take acceptable volume to work 2 rear restriction cylinders and a front disk caliber together!! Hooray! Notes: 1) The 5/viii� chief cylinder did Not come with 2 switches, only a restriction calorie-free switch and the lever was over an inch shorter. Since I like to employ the cruise control sometimes, had to use the OEM brake low-cal and cruise cancel switches and also the OEM lever to cover both switches. As well had to "build up" the "tab" to get it to push the cruise cancel switch in so the cruise control would engage. 2) I can feel the back brakes come up on offset and so the good stopping power of the front brakes as I pull the lever. 3) I can lock-up the rear brakes at will if I pull the brake lever difficult! 4) My brakes now work equally adept every bit my cars!! 5) I was very reluctant to put my religion in a $28 master cylinder, merely I accept put over 2,000 miles on this flavor and take not seen whatever leaking restriction fluid and now ride with confidence. Parts I needed to attain this: 1) Steel braided rear brake line (hooked to the 10 psi residual valve) 2) 10 psi residual valve (placed between the steel restriction line (in front of the left cycle) and the steel braided rear brake line)) 3) Steel braided front brake line to the right front end brake caliper 4) Double Banjo Bolt - 10mm (width) ten 1.25mm (thread pitch)

https://world wide web.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O ... UTF8&psc=1

5) 5/8� (15.8 mm) piston brake principal cylinder (replaced the OEM 1/2" (12.seven mm) brake master cylinder)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM ... =UTF8&th=1

Weir Phey1937

honda valkyrie trike fourm what rear master cylinder to use

Combining brakes to the hand brake lever

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